Ian, you think you've got a money pit - you have nothing :D

[DoubleTop]

Long list - major part was sourcing and fitting the fuel tank, tried three times to do the internal reseal thing

• New fuel tank and in tank filter
• New fuel pipes
• New main pipe fuel filter
• Removed carbs, clean both, new needles and seats
• Replaced carb filters
• Replaced rear suspension spheres
• Replaced rear brake pump seals
• Trace and resolve a/c fault
• New compressor fuse and assorted parts of wiring for a/c
• Sparks removed and cleaned after check for dirty fuel from duff tank
• New air intake (scuttle) filters, old ones were non existent, had rotted away - I didn't even know they were missing as there was nothing left!

The new tank was £500 all on it's own ..... not including labour or the efforts to have the existing one repaired. The penny pincher in me is still upset at losing £50 worth of fuel

Things to do:

• new wiring required in n/s front door for electric window motor.
• o/s rear central locking fault - solenoid needed
• parking brake service needed, calipers are partially seized - have been greased but need to just keep an eye on it
• front discs have lip on edge pads are at about 50%, saving pennies
• o/s front suspension mount, this one, http://www.flyingspares.com/shop/rol...m-ur72000.html showing signs on separation
• front brake pump seals seeping very slightly, much easier access to this pump than the one already done that is under the carbs, hence why it was done
• intermittent balance in audio faders, both front/rear and left/right - may result in a stealth install of an amp to the original speakers with a Bluetooth module
• front wheel check balance weights, I think she's lost a small weight - worst case the tyres have deformed when not in use in the barn
• investigate all door switches for interior lights - sometimes works, sometimes not, hoping a clean of the switches (when I find them) resolve this one

Oh the other things on the to do list - some medium length 50ish mile trips to tempt out the next round of things that will need attention

2 potential weddings - not as the driven wedding car, but as the photo car that sits in the nice bit of the car park. No hassle with insurance doing that and a few hundred notes into the bargain

DT.

[PhillipM]

Pfft, look at what I bought the other day just because I had one bush tired....



Damned Amazon and their 'customers also bought' suggestions...

[DoubleTop]

I'm lucky, not seen anything come up for parts for me from Amazon - most of them have 6-8 week lead times

[PhillipM]

Oh and the Jag did this, both sides (warning, mahoosive pictures of rusty tat to follow):

















The other side is worse!

[BigIan88]

At least you have a normal car to use whilst you're working on this Malk and this was purchased to be a project car

That, and you seem to know what you're talking about where I as I have no idea other than what I read and watch online

[coiler]

@malk nice list

@phil what year, mileage and model?

I wouldn't mind an Stype, one day, just to waft about.

[PhillipM]

x-type. They all do it. Just a matter of when it starts showing through, they rot inside out.

[DoubleTop]

that is some impressive rotting going on there!

Part of me wants to take some of the panels off to check the shell, especially around the rear arches, with mild evidence of previous leak off the seals, for now it's fixed with flexible roof sealant - bodge job is me and sitting in the boot with a hosepipe drowning the car, I didn't get wet. Yes the boot is that large, probably get 3 or 4 in there !

Regarding the panels, I know how much of a pain they will be to get off and back on, 35 years worth of a bolt in place tends to require the torch. On a ramp I spent a good hour with an inspection camera and light into the known water collection areas, the original water proofing was still there!

[DoubleTop]

job #1 - the n/s door

Investigation phase to which bit is broken = done

Part list, new electric window motor, or a service on the one installed - it's not a seizure in the lift mech as when the motor is removed, I can wind the window up and down - voltages on the multimeter are good.

New courtesy light switch required, which operates and installed on the base of the door lock. Which means removing the door lock with 35 year old locktite with screw heads large enough to use a 1/2 inch chisel as a screwdriver

Whilst on the subject of courtesy lights, a couple of blown bulbs to be replaced - some festoon bulbs that although I've ordered straight replacements from the UK, I've also got some LED ones on the way from ebay and china magics - just for fun.

I have ONE door that operates the interior courtesy lights, so you can imagine the fun trying to beat the relay to see which bulbs were good. The switches are £20 a pop.

The bonnet light wasn't working either, so took off the under bonnet duck cotton heat shield and gave that a good clean - trying to source a matching load of retainer clips to put it back on.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/143807...7671515686042/

The wood door topping, as it needed to come off has been re-fitted with new screws, the old ones were so old, that unscrewing the loose ones was a game, flat screwdriver levering the screw out while in-screwing. Once out, it was evident why this front wasn't as good as the others - no thread left on rusted screws.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/143807...7671515686042/

BUT - the most important thing, and first fix on any car, I haz musiks and yet have retained the original stereo. I cheated - some wizardry with old mobile phone to create a wifi network in the car, and a pair of Sony h.eargo portable speakers in multi-room setup, front and rear speakers, use a looped around the headlining 5m long 3.5mm stereo cable for when using the FM radio of the phone which creates an impressive aerial. I have a removable stereo system that sounds pretty cool

A pretty good weekend, pictures are in the flickr album taken this morning and next weekend, if parts arrive in time, will be putting it all back together again

[A Ginger Sheep]

Philip, how good are the KYB shocks? I put two on the back of my vectra c recently and was wondering if they would be okay to handle 30mm lowering springs or would they be screwed in no time? Was going to replace the shocks in the front strut before doing so as well so it would be 4x new shocks.

[633Squadron]

At least you have a normal car to use whilst you're working on this Malk and this was purchased to be a project car

That, and you seem to know what you're talking about where I as I have no idea other than what I read and watch online

You cheeky sod! Whatever work I do on your car, I always take the time to explain why, as well as the how and where. It's not my fault that the information falls out of your ear when you are asleep.

[PhillipM]

No idea Ginger, haven't fitted them yet, been too busy repairing the Jag, and the MX-5, and the buggy...KYB's are generally half decent though, I just made sure I got the Excel G's which have a little better internals than the standard replacements.

[coiler]

You cheeky sod! Whatever work I do on your car, I always take the time to explain why, as well as the how and where. It's not my fault that the information falls out of your ear when you are asleep.

[DoubleTop]

I miss my Land Rover, ignition module on that = £24, for the Rolls £400

[BigIan88]

Bin it and buy a VAG?