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The "Ian vs Cars" Thread

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  • Originally posted by BigIan88 View Post
    So about 2 months back I had issues with my reverse light working intermittently and throwing up an error on the dashboard to indicate its not functioning. I've since replaced the bulb and ye olde papi replaced the reverse switch over the weekend, which we believed was causing the problem, except it didn't make a difference.

    it turns out the bulb socket itself isn't receiving any current at all and from what I can see online and in the manual, there's little to no indication to point out what fuse holds the function of the reverse light so i'll be replacing all of the internal fuses myself at some point this week but i'm starting to run out of ideas now.

    Any suggestions?
    Yeah, buy some fuses that have LEDs in them, so that when one blows you can instantly spot it. Maplins and Halfrauds stock them,

    http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...ed-blade-fuses
    Creator of the Retr0bright Wiki - www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com and Admin at www.amibay.com - the retro computer trading forum - and Bigian88's Dad.....

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    • I ordered a new wiring connector for the gearbox switch that controls the reversing light, it arrived today. If the weather allows, I'll be fitting this to Ian's car. As the fuse that feeds the circuit is OK and Ian has already replaced the bulb and gearbox switch, it can only be an electrical connection. The terminals on the bulb holder looked a little corroded when we looked them over last weekend, so they were cleaned up with some wet and dry sandpaper. The worrying bit was that I couldn't get 12v at the plug that feeds the bulb holder, so that's why I am going after the gearbox switch plug. It's located under the battery tray, so there is a possibility that it's corroded inside. Oh, I've also got Ian the correct Haynes Workshop Manual for his car, so he can spend the Winter evenings absorbing lots of what Johnny Five calls "Input!"
      Creator of the Retr0bright Wiki - www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com and Admin at www.amibay.com - the retro computer trading forum - and Bigian88's Dad.....

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      • Definitely have some gremlins under the bonnet. The reverse light randomly started working last night and the warning light disappeared, only to randomly return this afternoon (the light was working this morning). I imagine its probably water on a damaged cable or it was connected until I went over a bump and its not a flush connection anymore, I have no idea
        i7 3770k - MSI Z77 Mpower - 16GB Avexir Mpower 2400Mhz - 500GB Samsung 840 EVO - EVGA GTX 980 SC - 1200W CM Gold - Custom Watercooling Loop - Corsair Air 540 - Steelseries 6Gv2 - Logitech MX 518 - Asus PB287Q - Creative T20




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        • A small fault, I wouldn't call that gremlins!

          So you have replaced the switch. Tick
          Get your dad's meter out and set it to Ohms, Put the probes on both sides of the plug and get someone to put it in reverse (ignition on, engine not running) and it should make contact. Then wiggle the cables around and see if it brakes connection or not.

          Have you replaced the reverse bulb yet? Get that changed as they are cheap chinese made items and always cause problems. Could be the filament has a bad contact or the bulb holder itself. Use a meter to test this again

          Originally posted by Aria
          On reflection though, as I am taking a bath, listening to "Rain of blessing-vajra chant" while typing on the iPad

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          • The switch and bulb have been replaced, my dad tested the bulb socket for any sort of current and got zip.

            What's also strange is that when the ignition is on and the engine is off, the light didnt work last night but when I turned the engine on and did it, the light worked! Not that it matters now as it doesnt work at all again

            i7 3770k - MSI Z77 Mpower - 16GB Avexir Mpower 2400Mhz - 500GB Samsung 840 EVO - EVGA GTX 980 SC - 1200W CM Gold - Custom Watercooling Loop - Corsair Air 540 - Steelseries 6Gv2 - Logitech MX 518 - Asus PB287Q - Creative T20




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            • Move down the line then. No current at bulb socket so unplug the light cluster and test at the plug for it. There will be a common earth and test each wire until you find the reverse one.

              Originally posted by Aria
              On reflection though, as I am taking a bath, listening to "Rain of blessing-vajra chant" while typing on the iPad

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              • I've got a haynes manual now and my dad bought a replacement lead, that goes into the reverse switch. Failing that, things could get complicated as the bulb, fuse, lead and switch would have all been replaced.

                Its started working again today too
                i7 3770k - MSI Z77 Mpower - 16GB Avexir Mpower 2400Mhz - 500GB Samsung 840 EVO - EVGA GTX 980 SC - 1200W CM Gold - Custom Watercooling Loop - Corsair Air 540 - Steelseries 6Gv2 - Logitech MX 518 - Asus PB287Q - Creative T20




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                • If it was purchased from VW, the "lead" will only be a short length of wire with two junior power timer pins on the end. They will need to be soldered into the existing wires. The whole reverse loom is wrapped up with the rest of the engine loom right back to the fuse box.

                  One thing i forgot to mention was to pop out the switch from the gearbox housing and operate it manually to see if it works. It could be that the little piece on the gearbox linkage that operates the switch is worn or broken

                  Originally posted by Aria
                  On reflection though, as I am taking a bath, listening to "Rain of blessing-vajra chant" while typing on the iPad

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                  • just dropping by to say my 36 year old car has been running with no developed faults for longer than any of Ians cars
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                    • Originally posted by coiler
                      Stomach was rumbling like a fatman landing on Sanctuary

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                      • I've done 4x the mileage you have!
                        i7 3770k - MSI Z77 Mpower - 16GB Avexir Mpower 2400Mhz - 500GB Samsung 840 EVO - EVGA GTX 980 SC - 1200W CM Gold - Custom Watercooling Loop - Corsair Air 540 - Steelseries 6Gv2 - Logitech MX 518 - Asus PB287Q - Creative T20




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                        • Originally posted by DoubleTop View Post
                          just dropping by to say my 36 year old car has been running with no developed faults for longer than any of Ians cars
                          GOLD! would read again
                          Originally posted by Aaron
                          I want those sweet cherries

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                          • Originally posted by M4T VW View Post
                            If it was purchased from VW, the "lead" will only be a short length of wire with two junior power timer pins on the end. They will need to be soldered into the existing wires. The whole reverse loom is wrapped up with the rest of the engine loom right back to the fuse box.

                            One thing i forgot to mention was to pop out the switch from the gearbox housing and operate it manually to see if it works. It could be that the little piece on the gearbox linkage that operates the switch is worn or broken
                            Gearbox switch has been replaced with a brand new one. The only (and I mean the ONLY) thing it can be now is the plug to the gearbox switch. It's located under the battery tray and a few Veedub members have reported corroded contacts of these plugs, so that's my diagnosis.Plug with fly leads was purchased from the Bay of E's.
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                            • Well i hope you are right. If it's a genuine plug it should have a purple secondary barrier. Make sure that is popped out before removing or inserting any pins or you will break the contacts. You also need a pin release tool unless you are just going to chop the old one off and connect in the new bit of cable.

                              Originally posted by Aria
                              On reflection though, as I am taking a bath, listening to "Rain of blessing-vajra chant" while typing on the iPad

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                              • Originally posted by M4T VW View Post
                                Well i hope you are right. If it's a genuine plug it should have a purple secondary barrier. Make sure that is popped out before removing or inserting any pins or you will break the contacts. You also need a pin release tool unless you are just going to chop the old one off and connect in the new bit of cable.
                                That's the plan, cut off the old one and solder in the new one. I'll test the old connectors first though.
                                Creator of the Retr0bright Wiki - www.retr0bright.wikispaces.com and Admin at www.amibay.com - the retro computer trading forum - and Bigian88's Dad.....

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