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With the price of fuel I'm seriously looking into doing my CBT and getting myself something along the lines of a cheap CBR125 to commute to work.
Unfortunately I would have to take the back roads to work due to its top speed of 70mph, avoiding the dual carriageway as Im sure it would be a push to hit 70.
This would add about 20 mins to a 30 min journey, the option is a YBR125 with the same limitation, or an RS125 with vastly reduced mpg (over the other 2) but a top speed of 90 making the dual carriageway viable.
Any peeps out there that have experience of being a new rider, and which of those would be a better option, and why?
Though I guess I should persuade the wife its a good idea before I spend the cash :)
Toonshorty
07-04-11, 21:42
http://www.autoholiks.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/2011-KTM-Duke-125-At-Cologne.jpg
You know you want it ;)
dual carriageway at 70 should be fine tbh :thumb: I used to do motorways etc on my 100cc with a top whack of 65 :D
2-stroke 125's will have more power but less mpg than a 4-stroke... also slightly more maintenance.
that looks like a bike a 20 year old would ride, I'm a touch older ;) and it certainly wont be new :)
jointhedotz
07-04-11, 22:00
that looks like a bike a 20 year old would ride, I'm a touch older ;) and it certainly wont be new :)
Unfortunately most 125's are either styled for kiddies or grandpa's, there is no real middle ground.
I've been thinking the same myself recently, ultimately though I concluded that I'd need to get something around the 500/600cc mark so lessons and a test pass would be required. Then it rained and I turned on the wipers in my car ;)
wonderlust
08-04-11, 09:55
Not a very pretty or powerfull bike but the old Honda CG125s are bullet proof.
If you want something with a little more torque and a little rarer look out for an old honda CB125 Superdream.
KarlHungus
08-04-11, 10:08
I used to ride an old 2000 kmx 125 to work, used to cruise along at 70mph no problems but was well capable of over 90mph :lol:
I used to ride an old 2000 kmx 125 to work, used to cruise along at 70mph no problems but was well capable of over 90mph :lol:
Fuel economy would be along the lines of the RS125 though I would guess? in all honesty I get better out of my car, my 125 will be about performance/cost - when I take my test and move up, then that may well change, but I need to persuade wifey that its a positive move, and if its costing more to get me to work, then I would imagine thats a no go.
My hornet 600 gets around 45-50mpg if I ride sensibly :) My 100cc used to get nearer 100mpg :thumb:
Of course the hornet can get down to about 20mpg if pushed :ninja:
My hornet 600 gets around 45-50mpg if I ride sensibly :) My 100cc used to get nearer 100mpg :thumb:
Of course the hornet can get down to about 20mpg if pushed :ninja:
The RS125 states about 40mpg.
the YBR 90mpg, and the CBR 75mpg
I generally get about 42mpg in the car, without driving steady, I can get nearer 50 'playing the 56mph game'
So I think my first bike will have to be in the CBR/YBR mold of not powerful but safe enough at 60 - I would def prefer the RS from a speed point, so I could sit comfortably at 70, but I have to balance things properly (no pun intended)
KarlHungus
08-04-11, 11:26
Fuel economy would be along the lines of the RS125 though I would guess? in all honesty I get better out of my car, my 125 will be about performance/cost - when I take my test and move up, then that may well change, but I need to persuade wifey that its a positive move, and if its costing more to get me to work, then I would imagine thats a no go.
The aprillia rs125? They're slightly worst on fuel but still a fun bike although a little bit pricey on parts.
The aprillia rs125? They're slightly worst on fuel but still a fun bike although a little bit pricey on parts.
Aye, I've not been able to fins anything but a CBR125 that really fits my needs, just wish it had a top speed of nearer 80, rather than 70 - think I'll have to maybe avoid dual carriageways.
Quite excited about the prospect of getting my first bike :)
We have some nice bikes,
if you're more less than 60 miles away, we can deliver too ;D
We have some nice bikes,
if you're more less than 60 miles away, we can deliver too ;D
I would assume nothing that would be suitable for me though, and Im a bit more than 60 miles away too.
Im not looking at spending massive amounts on a bike :)
YBR125 all the way mate, a good little bike, RS125's blow up like good ones and the parts are stupid money, CBR125 is ok but over priced.
We have some small bikes, just haven't got round to updating the site. How much are you looking to spend anyway?
We have some small bikes, just haven't got round to updating the site. How much are you looking to spend anyway?
Not a great deal tbh, it will be my first ever bike, and so I am after a bike that suits those needs, Im looking around and seeing whats available, without trying to limit my options. - still need to sort my licence and CBT anyway.
Always a good idea, I mean pallets are viable but realistically you need to be able to ride a bike before you buy it, and ride the bike before buying, or at least sit in it. if it's uncomfortable or hard to use for you, not only will you be in displeasure, you're also likely to have an accident.
You could always consider a restricted 400cc if you pass your full test, my vfr400 gets about 45-50 mpg unrestricted, i would imagine it would be more restricted.
Noone needs huge bikes like 1000cc, 600cc are more than enough for pretty much anything and 400cc handle way better (from a road bike pov) and have the oomph to get you where you need to be when you need to be there.
I'd hate being stuck on a 125 now, they're too slow to get up to speed and overtaking is a nightmare.
Seriously consider doing your full test / direct access as soon as possible.
wonderlust
12-04-11, 08:24
Just for information,
I get 45-60mpg from my ST1100 depending how heavy my right elbow is ;)
about 250-280 miles from a tank.
You could always consider a restricted 400cc if you pass your full test, my vfr400 gets about 45-50 mpg unrestricted, i would imagine it would be more restricted.
Noone needs huge bikes like 1000cc, 600cc are more than enough for pretty much anything and 400cc handle way better (from a road bike pov) and have the oomph to get you where you need to be when you need to be there.
I'd hate being stuck on a 125 now, they're too slow to get up to speed and overtaking is a nightmare.
Seriously consider doing your full test / direct access as soon as possible.
I will, but tbh, getting as far as CBT and a bike is an outlay that we can't really afford, but the long term gains are justified, so we can manage it with some sacrifice, unfortunately theres no way I can get the extra together for the direct access, so from that point of view Im stuck on a 125 for the foreseeable, or will be when I get one!
SilveR_172
14-04-11, 20:00
im wanting to get myself another 125 Scooot i did have a Gilera Runner 172 , and looking for the same thing all for around 1K If i can find one
Ive had 2 scooters and loved em both, loadsa fun cheap to run. Problem being other road users dont look out for you :( I'll get another at some point but need to sort another car out first.
like zaz said a bigger restricted bike sounds like its what you want, and old rvg 250 or something you can get bits for cheap when you drop it.
Direct access is what it says, direct access to big bikes. As far as im aware the CBT then full test will allow upto 33bhp and whatever the power/weight ratio is these days, DA then removes any restriction. I think :D
Any big Jap brand (honda kawasaki suzuki yamaha) will have readily available parts for a very wide range of bikes, i dont have any issue sourcing original stuff for my 22 year old grey import as an example.
That said, it may be worth investigating modern ranges of scooters as they are functional, cheap to run and look decent. Great for running round town, bit noisy in some cases but if Rossi can keep one on the back wheel all the way round a circuit, im sure they have a lot of potential :)
For the large majority of bikes, you can get parts the next day,
Not actually trying to push the site, but if you visit tandrmotorcyles.com, theres a list of links on the left hand side to catalogues of the large distributors. If it's on there, 99% of bike shops can get the part next day, if it's not, good luck.
Its a nightmare, looking all over for either a cbf or a cbr, think the time of year is proving troublesome :(
Ok, have ordered a 2008 CBR125 in blue for £1450, less than 8000 miles and taxed/tested until Feb 2012
Ok, have ordered a 2008 CBR125 in blue for £1450, less than 8000 miles and taxed/tested until Feb 2012
Bargain :thumb:
Nice bike too - and being honda should be bulletproof so long as it hasn't been revved hard from cold :D
Just need to get a wriggle on and do my CBT now ), and buy a helmet etc :)
With regards to revving hard from cold, is there a guideline for this? does cold mean overnight? or winter? etc etc - god im such a noob :)
Nice bike, they eat chains and sprockets mate, keep the chain ajusted and well lubed and you should be fine.:)
Nice bike, they eat chains and sprockets mate, keep the chain ajusted and well lubed and you should be fine.:)
Thats a little worrying, do you mean if I don't look after it? Or in general? Im hoping that the 'ajusted and well lubed and you should be fine' means that as long as I look after the bike then things should be ok, bar normal wear and tear.
I know I have a shed load to learn.
Does anyone know of a good site to get helmet/boots/gloves/jacket/trousers (am I forgetting anything?)
You will be fine mate, they just need ajusting all the time so keep you eye on it, simple 5 min job once a week of a fortnight, chains need to be lubed at least once a week, and always do it when you come back as the chain is warm and the lube has a chance to go off, if you do it before you go out it just flies off everywere.
Edit. for gear try these guy's, they have dealers all over the place.http://www.weise-clothing.co.uk/
Great gear and not over priced, all comes with a 2 year guarentee, I have one of there jackets and I would give it 10 out of 10 and it was only £80.00.
You could always go for a Vespa....they make whoever rides them look good
http://modculture.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2007/07/29/vespa_s.jpg
Just need to get a wriggle on and do my CBT now ), and buy a helmet etc :)
With regards to revving hard from cold, is there a guideline for this? does cold mean overnight? or winter? etc etc - god im such a noob :)
"Cold" in this sense means after the bike has been sat idle for anything more than about an hour imo. Basically, when you first start it, let the engine warm up for a bit before you rev the spuds off it ;) You can get on a ride it straight away, no problem, but give it a few minutes idling or riding gently before you cane it :thumb:
Thats a little worrying, do you mean if I don't look after it? Or in general? Im hoping that the 'ajusted and well lubed and you should be fine' means that as long as I look after the bike then things should be ok, bar normal wear and tear.
I know I have a shed load to learn.
Does anyone know of a good site to get helmet/boots/gloves/jacket/trousers (am I forgetting anything?)
All bikes wear out chain and sprockets, more so if they're ridden hard and/or not looked after. Keep it lubed with a squirt every every 50-100 miles, more often in the wet. Basically if it looks dry, squirt it :)
Regarding clothing... for a lid I would ABSOLUTELY go in to a shop and try some on. You want a lid that will be almost uncomfortably tight when you first put it on as this will protect your head should the worst happen and won't get loose and floppy as the foam wears in. As tight as you can bear really. Speak to the assistant in the shop - explain you're new to riding, get some advice. DON'T be pushed into buying anything there and then unless something is on a stupidly good offer.
Boots / gloves / jacket / trousers are slightly less important, but should still fit. Again getting a fit in a shop is best. You can always leave then try and find the same sizes online ;)
I've used http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/ but for clothes they are only any good if you know exactly what sizes you want.
Trousers I recommend "textaline" style... cheap, waterproof, padded... no point buying leather especially on a budget and on a first bike. http://www.busters-accessories.co.uk/products/list/Clothing-and-Helmets/Mens-Textile-Trousers My last pair cost me £40 :thumb:
For boots, I use ex-army Para boots without a steel toecap. Much cheaper than proper bike boots and just as protective (imho) for the most part. The lack of steel toecap will mean you can still change gear :D £30-£40 for a decent pair.
Much appreciated guys, I have a big motorcycle wear shop here in Darlo, so I'll pop in and speak to someone there about helmet, it sounds like Im gonna need to start wearing contacts again!
Much appreciated guys, I have a big motorcycle wear shop here in Darlo, so I'll pop in and speak to someone there about helmet, it sounds like Im gonna need to start wearing contacts again!
You don't need to, but it can be more comfortable and in the summer it gives you the option of sunglasses which can be a major benefit (and you look cool :cool: :D ).
I wear glasses all the time but you have to take them off every time you take your helmet on and off and feed them in through the open visor :rolleyes:
Agree with Spaceboy as far as your lid goes, try many for fit. lids-direct for decent prices, though worth checking ebay for end-of line stock, i picked up a brand new 250 quid lid for 80 quid.
As for kit, textiles are good all round, but if you want proper protection from damage and weather then cheap stuff wont serve you well at all IMO. Review sites should be ploughed through for opinions and keep in mind you have to treat them every so often to keep them waterproof.
So, in that area i disagree with SB, in that i personally sold my top of the line textile suit in favour of better skin/armour protection on my leathers, i have a cheap fully waterproof pack-suit to go over my leathers if it chucks down and it fits under my seat on the bike.
As for boots, again i would say anything other than armoured is asking for trouble, no other footwear is designed to prevent ankles snapping in the same way, i just wouldnt risk it. For the extra over a pair of decent para boots, why skimp ?
Put it this way, a great set of leathers and proper boots with a rainsuit will be cheaper than a properly weatherproof textile suit and crap boots, and will look cooler too :)
Lastly, feeding sunnies in through a visor is no great issue, open face lids make you look like you have a business suit on as underwear :P
Ok, bike delivered last night, wish I wasnt at work :)
getting
LID Stryke helmet
RST Raptor textile jacket
RST Alpha textile trousers
RST Raptor boots
Waiting on gloves as I need to know size I need.
Cant wait to have a day off so I can get my CBT done :)
RST gear ain't bad at all mate, imported in to the uk by the guy's who import AGV helmets, and I think they have just started importing the rather expensive Alpinestar stuff to, so a good choice.
Thats a bmx helmet if im not wrong, i wouldnt carry a watermelon home in one, let alone my head.
Your broken mangled limbs can heal, cant say the same for your head - save up and get something decent mate.
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